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I hope it solves you cooling system problems Roscoe they can be a real pain and you can have more than one some times and you don't pick up on them until the gang up on you and start working together I recently had the entry tube from the radiator in the recovery bottle get blocked an it was building so much pressure that the hose clamps where weaping the pressure out and then sucking air back in from were ever it could and pumping the system down over a few warm ups also had a bit of a green mark around the weep hole but never saw any drips but saw a few on the hoses I was convinced the pump was buggered but I ran a 3.5 or 4 mm drill though the inlet tube moulding and have done aboout 7000k's now with no trouble. If the pressure cannot get out any where else some times the seal is the weakest link so if I were you now I would take the cap to the radator repair shop and make sure that it releases at about 14psi [dont always asume a new one is right some of them are just crapp] and you should be able to suck back though it freely also pop the retune tube of the radator cap fill tube and make sure that you can blow bubbles into the recovery bottle you may not have to lash out with that 160 just yet thats nealy 5 cartons or three of the good stuff.
Regards Patrick
O yea take the cap of the recovery bottle or you will not be able to blow many bubbles but you might blow some thing else that will be uncomfatable.

Hello Rosco The cap opens on rise of pressure, on the gtr the presure range is 13.2 to17.9psi, any cap at that pressure will do, we raise preressure to raise the boiling point, we raise the boiling point because the higher and more constant the temp the less wear, the problem with running at high temps is that we form small bubbles of steam on the water side of the cylinder walls which go out of shape with the shock waves of the cylinder and when they reform they are pireced by a spear of water which pases strait though and into the cylinder wall this cleans off a little crapp and that point then transfers the heat better so bubbles the continue to form at that spot and so you end up with pin holes though your cylinder walls, so by raising the pressure we raise the boiling point and stop the damage, most mechanics will tell you that this is electrolis but it's caviation which is complety different. I think your pump is most likly shot but that may be because of or by some other problem so best to check a few thing as you go.
Regards Patrick