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My Recent Posts · (12-Jun-08

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Having only owned my A1 for just under a year ,i have been trying to find a gentle solution to remove rusty screws from the reservoir caps ..the screws are totally flogged out (not by me ) previous owner was extremely rough with her .just looking for a way to remove screws without damaging resevoirs or caps ..
any pointers towards a solution would be very very welcome

My Recent Posts · (12-Jun-08

http://www.motorcycle.com/how-to/how-to-extract-stuck-screws-3440.html

Might help, but most remedies involve heat and or drilling.................

Cheers, Craig

My Recent Posts · (12-Jun-08

"Phillips-head screws can be hard to turn because the driver just pops out. Gritty kitchen cleanser can make the bit grip better."

Can't say I knew that!

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4218825.html

My Recent Posts · (12-Jun-08

http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/screwit.htm

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/stuckscrews.html

Hope there is something in that lot will help...........

Cheers, Craig

My Recent Posts · (12-Jun-08

with the resevoirs being a cast allay i am wary of inpact or too mch heat . would youknow how durable the res and caps are roughly?

My Recent Posts · (12-Jun-08

According to http://www.cycleconnections.com/articledetail.asp?TypeID=23&ID=543 you can remove the screws from the reservoir lid with an impact driver

So I would guess reasonably durable. I would support the handlebars from underneath though.

Cheers, Craig

My Recent Posts · (12-Jun-08

seems to me a reasonable and sensible idea , from an old adel. boy to anotha thanks for all the info regards peter

My Recent Posts · (13-Jun-08

I did mine some time ago with an impact driver - worked a treat. I found that pushing down on the driver (ie compressing the spring) before whacking it helps as that way, you don't need to hit it too hard. I replaced my screws with stainless ones which are available at most auto shops.

My Recent Posts · (13-Jun-08

The factory screws are junk, very soft. Stainless screws would be great, as would Allen head screws. I always put a dab of grease on teh threads when I screw my reservoir caps back on, makes life a LOT easier next time.

Regards, Andrew.

My Recent Posts · (14-Jun-08

three screws out tday left screw on the brakes is being a problem ..gotta fix it now i have no front brakes....

My Recent Posts · (14-Jun-08

Typhoon 90 wrote:
The factory screws are junk, very soft. Stainless screws would be great, as would Allen head screws. I always put a dab of grease on teh threads when I screw my reservoir caps back on, makes life a LOT easier next time.

I would suggest you use a copper based grease as this will significantly reduce the galvanic corrosion particularly if you use s/steel bolts in aluminium castings. I use Molytec Copper Anti-seize. For more info Google " dissimilar metal corrosion ".

My Recent Posts · (15-Jun-08

If the screw is really buggered first drill a small pilot hole in the centre probably 1/8 should work. Then using a drill bit that is marginally smaller in diameter of the the head of the screw drill it out and it should(the head of the screw) drill off. Once this is clear the threaded part may unwind on its own.
Often with countersunk screws into alloy it is not always the thread that is bound but can just be overtightened and once the head is off the screw becomes free to unwind. If it it still stuck at least now you have a pilot hole. Run the correct size tapping drill through and run a tap down or buy a small easy out. I have doen this many times over the years with success.
Good Luck
RobS

My Recent Posts · (15-Jun-08

went to the hardware and bought a kit for removing screws .$28.00 well spent got the last one out in less than 20 seconds.... bought some 5mm thread screws to hold me over till i can get sme stainless screws ...i appreciate all the info and links everybody has given to this post regards Anotha A1

Author	Comment
anotha A1	BRAKE CLUTCH RESERVOIRS SCREWS RUSTED	Lead	[-]
Posts: 8 (12-Jun-08 11:05 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Tags : None Having only owned my A1 for just under a year ,i have been trying to find a gentle solution to remove rusty screws from the reservoir caps ..the screws are totally flogged out (not by me ) previous owner was extremely rough with her .just looking for a way to remove screws without damaging resevoirs or caps .. any pointers towards a solution would be very very welcome
Sebastionbear	How to Extract Stuck Screws.	#1	[-]
Posts: 58 (12-Jun-08 11:19 PM) failure to launch Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	http://www.motorcycle.com/how-to/how-to-extract-stuck-screws-3440.html Might help, but most remedies involve heat and or drilling................. Cheers, Craig
Sebastionbear		#2	[-]
Posts: 59 (12-Jun-08 11:22 PM) failure to launch Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	"Phillips-head screws can be hard to turn because the driver just pops out. Gritty kitchen cleanser can make the bit grip better." Can't say I knew that! http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4218825.html
Sebastionbear	More...............	#3	[-]
Posts: 60 (12-Jun-08 11:26 PM) failure to launch Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/screwit.htm http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/stuckscrews.html Hope there is something in that lot will help........... Cheers, Craig
anotha A1		#4	[-]
Posts: 10 (12-Jun-08 11:27 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	with the resevoirs being a cast allay i am wary of inpact or too mch heat . would youknow how durable the res and caps are roughly?
Sebastionbear		#5	[-]
Posts: 61 (12-Jun-08 11:30 PM) failure to launch Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	According to http://www.cycleconnections.com/articledetail.asp?TypeID=23&ID=543 you can remove the screws from the reservoir lid with an impact driver So I would guess reasonably durable. I would support the handlebars from underneath though. Cheers, Craig
anotha A1		#6	[-]
Posts: 11 (12-Jun-08 11:42 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	seems to me a reasonable and sensible idea , from an old adel. boy to anotha thanks for all the info regards peter
Roba		#7	[-]
Posts: 776 (13-Jun-08 12:51 AM) No Keys Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I did mine some time ago with an impact driver - worked a treat. I found that pushing down on the driver (ie compressing the spring) before whacking it helps as that way, you don't need to hit it too hard. I replaced my screws with stainless ones which are available at most auto shops. Cheers - RobA 2003 1000GTR
Typhoon 90		#8	[-]
Posts: 319 (13-Jun-08 6:11 PM) I Live Here Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	The factory screws are junk, very soft. Stainless screws would be great, as would Allen head screws. I always put a dab of grease on teh threads when I screw my reservoir caps back on, makes life a LOT easier next time. Regards, Andrew.
anotha A1		#9	[-]
Posts: 15 (14-Jun-08 7:01 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	three screws out tday left screw on the brakes is being a problem ..gotta fix it now i have no front brakes....
Murphyau		#10	[-]
Posts: 113 (14-Jun-08 8:46 PM) I Live Here Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Typhoon 90 wrote: The factory screws are junk, very soft. Stainless screws would be great, as would Allen head screws. I always put a dab of grease on teh threads when I screw my reservoir caps back on, makes life a LOT easier next time. I would suggest you use a copper based grease as this will significantly reduce the galvanic corrosion particularly if you use s/steel bolts in aluminium castings. I use Molytec Copper Anti-seize. For more info Google " dissimilar metal corrosion ". Regards, Steve Sydney, Oz. Last Edited By: Murphyau 15-Jun-08 8:19 AM. Edited 1 times.
RobS	Some may cringe but it works.	#11	[-]
Posts: 253 (15-Jun-08 10:56 AM) I Live Here Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	If the screw is really buggered first drill a small pilot hole in the centre probably 1/8 should work. Then using a drill bit that is marginally smaller in diameter of the the head of the screw drill it out and it should(the head of the screw) drill off. Once this is clear the threaded part may unwind on its own. Often with countersunk screws into alloy it is not always the thread that is bound but can just be overtightened and once the head is off the screw becomes free to unwind. If it it still stuck at least now you have a pilot hole. Run the correct size tapping drill through and run a tap down or buy a small easy out. I have doen this many times over the years with success. Good Luck RobS
anotha A1		#12	[-]
Posts: 19 (15-Jun-08 11:23 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	went to the hardware and bought a kit for removing screws .$28.00 well spent got the last one out in less than 20 seconds.... bought some 5mm thread screws to hold me over till i can get sme stainless screws ...i appreciate all the info and links everybody has given to this post regards Anotha A1

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